Sligachan to Applecross to Oban
Oct. 25th, 2009 04:51 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
philmophlegmFriday
My father had told me that the Old Man of Storr, a rock pinnacle in north east Skye was worth seeing. That would also take me past Portree, where there is an RSPB exhibition about white-tailed eagles. If I wasn't going to see any (and believe me, I kept my eyes open and my roof down today), at least I could find an expert to identify which species I had filmed.
The exhibition is quite good. I was the only one there, and it took the RSPB man a while to get the projector working, but the films showing both white-tailed eagles taking fish from the sea and a helicopter ride through the Cuillin Hills were just about worth the £4.50 admission. I bought a bird book but resisted his attempts to get me to sign up for membership. When I showed him my photos and videos, he was able to confirm that what I had seen were golden eagles. That was what I had thought, but before I had a pro say this, there had always been a niggling doubt at the back of my mind that they were just common buzzards.
The Old Man of Storr is ok if you like that sort of thing. To be honest, I thought the views in the other direction - across to Raasay and beyond to the Applecross Peninsula on the mainland were more striking. Once again, the weather was bright and sunny. Actually the best scenery on Skye is the Cuillin Hills. They are fantastically crinkly, and very distinctive from most of the Hebrides.
Then back down the A87 and over the bridge to Kyle of Lochalsh, turning north onto the A890 then left onto the A896 to Loch Carron and Kishorn. At Lochcarron I passed another S2000 coming in the opposite direction. We waved at each other. He had a broad grin on his face that instantly made me realise where he had just taken his car. The A890 and A896 are good driving roads, but only an appetiser for the 'Pass of the Cattle' across the Applecross Peninsula to Applecross. This is regarded as one of the most challenging roads on a bike, motorbike or car in the country. Indeed, there is a sign at the entrance to the pass that warns that the road is "not suitable for learner drivers". I would add that it isn't suitable for drivers or passengers of a nervous disposition, especially those who suffer from vertigo.
Unlike most passes, the Pass of the Cattle does not attempt to find a way around the hills. Instead it goes steeply up (several first gear 180 degree 1 in 4 hairpins) and just goes over the top before coming back down again on the other side. It is a truly spectacular road. It is also quiet enough that you can still get a decent speed, although there are certainly places where discretion and caution win over exhilaration.
I was tempted to turn around in Applecross and do the Pass again but decided instead to take the coast road around the north of the peninsula. This was a good move, since this was an exciting driving road in its own right. Then it was south onto the A896, the A890 again then east onto the A87 past some big mountains (unfortunately hidden by clouds), turning right onto the A82 along Loch Oich, Loch Lochy, through Fort William and past Ben Nevis, along Loch Linnhe and on to Oban. This is very much 'tourist Scotland'. The A82 is a dull road, there was low cloud obscuring the view and I (and about 40 other vehicles) were stuck behind a coach trip from Morecambe for about an hour. (Despite the long queue, he was never tempted to pull over into a lay-by). By clever overtaking, I had advanced up the queue so that I was immediately behind the coach ready for the next overtaking opportunity when it started pissing it down, and I had to pull over to put my roof up, putting my right at the back of the queue again. Not fun.
At South Ballachulish, I turned onto the A828 and then the A85 and Oban. I stayed the night in a guest house overlooking the harbour. The wallpaper in my room was crimson and gold. These were Lannister colours, which prompted me to listen to my audiobook of 'A Storm of Swords'.
My father had told me that the Old Man of Storr, a rock pinnacle in north east Skye was worth seeing. That would also take me past Portree, where there is an RSPB exhibition about white-tailed eagles. If I wasn't going to see any (and believe me, I kept my eyes open and my roof down today), at least I could find an expert to identify which species I had filmed.
The exhibition is quite good. I was the only one there, and it took the RSPB man a while to get the projector working, but the films showing both white-tailed eagles taking fish from the sea and a helicopter ride through the Cuillin Hills were just about worth the £4.50 admission. I bought a bird book but resisted his attempts to get me to sign up for membership. When I showed him my photos and videos, he was able to confirm that what I had seen were golden eagles. That was what I had thought, but before I had a pro say this, there had always been a niggling doubt at the back of my mind that they were just common buzzards.
The Old Man of Storr is ok if you like that sort of thing. To be honest, I thought the views in the other direction - across to Raasay and beyond to the Applecross Peninsula on the mainland were more striking. Once again, the weather was bright and sunny. Actually the best scenery on Skye is the Cuillin Hills. They are fantastically crinkly, and very distinctive from most of the Hebrides.
Then back down the A87 and over the bridge to Kyle of Lochalsh, turning north onto the A890 then left onto the A896 to Loch Carron and Kishorn. At Lochcarron I passed another S2000 coming in the opposite direction. We waved at each other. He had a broad grin on his face that instantly made me realise where he had just taken his car. The A890 and A896 are good driving roads, but only an appetiser for the 'Pass of the Cattle' across the Applecross Peninsula to Applecross. This is regarded as one of the most challenging roads on a bike, motorbike or car in the country. Indeed, there is a sign at the entrance to the pass that warns that the road is "not suitable for learner drivers". I would add that it isn't suitable for drivers or passengers of a nervous disposition, especially those who suffer from vertigo.
Unlike most passes, the Pass of the Cattle does not attempt to find a way around the hills. Instead it goes steeply up (several first gear 180 degree 1 in 4 hairpins) and just goes over the top before coming back down again on the other side. It is a truly spectacular road. It is also quiet enough that you can still get a decent speed, although there are certainly places where discretion and caution win over exhilaration.
I was tempted to turn around in Applecross and do the Pass again but decided instead to take the coast road around the north of the peninsula. This was a good move, since this was an exciting driving road in its own right. Then it was south onto the A896, the A890 again then east onto the A87 past some big mountains (unfortunately hidden by clouds), turning right onto the A82 along Loch Oich, Loch Lochy, through Fort William and past Ben Nevis, along Loch Linnhe and on to Oban. This is very much 'tourist Scotland'. The A82 is a dull road, there was low cloud obscuring the view and I (and about 40 other vehicles) were stuck behind a coach trip from Morecambe for about an hour. (Despite the long queue, he was never tempted to pull over into a lay-by). By clever overtaking, I had advanced up the queue so that I was immediately behind the coach ready for the next overtaking opportunity when it started pissing it down, and I had to pull over to put my roof up, putting my right at the back of the queue again. Not fun.
At South Ballachulish, I turned onto the A828 and then the A85 and Oban. I stayed the night in a guest house overlooking the harbour. The wallpaper in my room was crimson and gold. These were Lannister colours, which prompted me to listen to my audiobook of 'A Storm of Swords'.
